The bellfry of the Legazpi church of San Gregorio Magno is located at the crest of the pediment – a seeming hallmark of Bicolandia churches.
Legazpi church with Mayon volcano looming from a distance.
Last day before going back to Manila. Spent early morning at Old Albay for breakfast and admiring the imposing San Gregorio Magno Cathedral with the mighty Mayon looming in the background. Afterwards we ventured a little uphill to the neighboring town of Daraga for one final stop before me and my travel buddies were to part ways – them going further south into Sorsogon and me journeying back to Naga and then Manila in the evening.
The two Daragang Magayon….The Daraga church and Mayon volcano.
Three scallop shells at the top of the triangular pediment of Daraga church.
Richly ornate Baroque carvings decorate the facade.
Angels of stone
Daraga is a quaint town whose claim to fame is having the most photographed man-made structure in Bicol – the ruins of Cagsawa. Unknown to most visitors to the town though is that the current church built to replace that of Cagsawa built on top of a hill offer more charm not to mention a similarly breathtaking view of Mayon. Offering a unique vantage which overlooks Mayon, Lignon Hill, Legazpi city, and the gulf beyond – the church appears like a mighty sentinel. Recently plastered with lime, the facade of the church of Nuestra Senora dela Porteria (Our Lady of the Gate) gleams in the morning sun. Festooned with Baroque carvings and massive Salomonica columns, the church is the latest addition to Albay’s list of National Cultural Treasures.
The Franciscan crest rendered in stone.
We were given a rare chance to see the baptistry of Daraga church under the bellfry. Extensive damage from moisture is visible at the left while the carvings remain intact.
The details of the vault above the baptistry
Already awed by this enobling church, a surprise in the belltower awaited us. Guided by Ana Lorilla who oversees the restoration efforts, we were granted access to see the baptistry. Closed to the public in preparation for more intensive repair, the baptistry is damp and heavy moss growth endanger the space. Although in disrepair, its hard not to be bowled over the intricacies of its decoration with carvings adoring its pilasters, the vaulted ceiling, and the mismatched floor tiles of blue and white china.
We had a chance to climb up next the facade of Daraga church where we got to see these details up close.
The remaining side walls of the church facing Mayon volcano feature scrolls that are plastered in white giving this shot an almost – Santorini feel.
Probabaly the best view of Mayon volcano and yet the most underrated.
Spending the better part of the morning in Daraga church made it the highlight of the entire trip for in this spot we took in the spectacle of 2 Daragang Magayons – the church and Mayon volcano.
Cena Una restaurant in Daraga is an unexpected find after an entire morning in Daraga church.
For lunch before we parted ways, we dined in style at Cena Una – a restaurant in a restored ancestral house in suburban Daraga where we feasted on swanky fare with local twists.
The old Penafrancia shrine has the replica of the Ina of Bicolandia – The Nuestra Senora de Penafrancia.
After a slight bit of pasalubong shopping, I bade the two off and went my own way back to Naga. Completing my earlier promise of paying homage to Ina – the lady of Penafrancia, I finished the trip with a side trip to the old Penfrancia shrine where I heard mass and to the Basilica where I lit candles in thanksgiving. The ritual gave a meaningful end to this trip to Bicol.
Inside the new Basilica Minore of Our Lady of Penafrancia
By that time it were just mere days before we ring in the new year 2012 and I was thankful to the brim for having this trip to end the year of travels with. 2011 has truly been spectacular with new destinations visited and new boundaries crossed. The sight of Mayon and a slew of colonial churches that I have visited further enriched my year and hopefully the coming 2012 will offer much more.
jongbasco 